Uganda - Take 2

Missed Mgahinga… Found Forest
The border was only 20 kms or so from Ruhengeri so before we knew it, we’d bought some massive fresh mandazi for morning coffee and were sorting out the border formalities. Very pleasant both sides. Entered Uganda a bit lighter in the pocket after shelling out for visas and a foreign vehicle permit. At least we’d got away without the permit when we entered the first time.
Drove through the first big town called Kisoro. Wanted to draw money but the Stanbic ATM queue was too long so we kept on going. Luckily we missed the turning for Mgahahinga National Park, which was the continuation of the Parc Nacional de Volcans from Rwanda, and made our way to the Nkuringo Forest which lies at the southern end of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. As it turns out, it is also home to a family of 18 gorillas. The drive in was amazing, winding between 2 lakes and climbing all the time. Also saw a flock of at least 30 crowned cranes. Special, as they are Uganda’s national bird. Nkuringo Gorilla Campsite was well located but a bit pricey at $10 each per night. We had the place to ourselves. We all took a walk to the park visitor’s centre which was a very fancy name for a scruffy two-roomed office and then to check out a brand new hotel (open all of 3 days when we arrived) called Clouds, part of the Ugandan Safari Company. It is run by Gary, a South African and Michael, another South African is the general manager of all their lodges. They were very hospitable and invited us for drinks the following evening. Prospero Bailey had been one of their first guests, stopping over while flying his new plane home from Ireland. Quite a challenge building and operating here, as there is no power and no ground water. The logistics were incredible but it shows it can be done. A stunning hotel in a stunning location and with exclusive rights to 6 gorilla permits per day. They are sure to do well.
Oh well, they aren’t called rain forests for nothing, it poured in the night and in fact we haven’t seen a lot of the sun since then.

Bum Buhoma
The plan was to drive from Nkuringo Gate to Buhoma Gate, as the crow flies a distance of 12 kms. It took us all day. The drive was magic. Stopped for coffee on the north-western shore of Lake Bunyoni at Muko Campsite and saw otters. Was too early to camp and even though the setting was appealing we needed to move on. Contrary to the advice of the resident guide at Muko, we took the scenic road that skirts and eventually goes through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and are so glad we did. Rebecca got to see gorillas!! They were on the side of the road outside the park . Not hugely photogenic but they were climbing trees, pulling down creepers and calling to each other. We hope that this is an experience she’ll remember.
Arrived at the Buhoma Community Campsite which is just inside the park gate. Very busy place as it is the main gorilla tracking spot in Uganda. The visitor’s centre didn’t look as good as the one in Rwanda but at least the Ugandan Wildlife Authority does transport you to see the gorillas instead of the other way round! We had just fired up the jiko when the heaven’s opened. Cooked spaghetti under a tiny shelter with my feet in the mud, aargh! We then retreated to the roof top tent to watch Planet Earth. What an end to the day when Rebecca saw her gorillas.
It turned inot a noisy night for Kaz as she heard people singing at the tops of their voices; cars parking next to us in the night as well as the rain. (We were camped in the car park, Rebecca and I slept)
At least in the morning, we were able to pack up a wet tent in the dry, get it? Good.

Queen Elizabeth National Park
This park is intersected by 2 main roads, which was great because we were planning to do our game viewing from them to avoid paying the park fees. The road was pretty good in parts and pretty muddy in others. We saw Ugandan kob, Ugandan elephants, Ugandan buffalo, Ugandan waterbuck and Ugandan warthogs. Stopped at the Ishasha Gate for lunch and my charm offensive on Johnson was wasted as he wouldn’t let us camp there without paying the park fees which were toppish. Same story at the next gate but we were told about Kingfisher Lodge on the escarpment which offered camping. Even though it meant backtracking south for 20 or so kms we knew we wouldn’t get anything before or in Kasese, the next town.
Kingfisher had a million dollar bird’s eye view of the park and the Lakes, George and Edward. We took over their garden and were again camped in the car park. It is quite surreal to sit, in an hotel’s grounds, under a thatch shelter, cooking tuna ala king on a jiko when the hotel guests are tucking into a buffet on the next table. Would any SA hotels entertain this? I’m not so sure. It gets better because you then wind between the diners in the restaurant with your toothbrush to brush your teeth before bed.
While sitting out after dinner , we saw a pennant-winged nightjar fly over. ..a new spot, a new spot!

Fort Portal
After drawing money at a Stanbic ATM (about time as we were shilling-less) and chatting to some of the staff in Kasese, we filled up with diesel for the first time since leaving Kabale to go to Rwanda, doing about 1300 kms on 100 litres, not too shabby. I had a heart stopping moment while they were filling the main tank as one of the Shell guys alerted me to diesel pouring out from under the engine. Luckily it was just out of the breather pipe, yikes!
We bought some fresh banana muffins and sausage rolls from Titi’s Bread in Margharita Street. Worth looking for, but check what’s fresh.
We ended up having these for lunch about 20 kms before Fort Portal, on a flat spot with only cows for company. Now that makes a change!
Fort Portal looks like a fairly nice town of some substance. We shopped at Andrew’s Supermarket before setting off for Lake Nkuruba, one of a group of crater lakes to be founds 20kms south of the town. It started raining again… we are starting to rust. We found the first community camp site on the lake and drove in to find Lockie (an Aussie we’d last seen in Kinigi, Rwanda). He has been cycling for over 4 years and has cycled over 83 000 kms through 66 countries. It was nice to catch up with him and later with Andy & Connie, a Swiss couple who’d we’d also last seen there, who arrived later. We also met an Italian couple who were really nice and who we ended up sharing food with one evening.
The sun is shining so we are staying put to do some washing. We also have the place to ourselves as everyone has moved on. Saw vervets, black and white colobus and some others which could be red colobus but we're not convinced without leaving the campsite.
The campsite is also the practice spot for the Lake Nkuruba Community Entertainment troupe so we've been drummed and sang to, again...and again. Nice to hear though