15 June 2008

Mocambique to Tanzania

Pemba paradise to pilfering Pangane
Spent about 5 nights at Nacole Jardim. It seemed to suck us in and not want to let us go. We were there at high high tide as it was new moon, so the discussion turned to: when would the ferry run, when would it not run, when should we get to the launching spot? Eventually we summoned up the energy to pack up and move on.

Nice drive up the coast to Pangane where there is a campsite run by Mr Ashim at the jutting out piece of land. The sort of spit that attracts wind and windy it was!! Relentless wind.
Yep, even after being warned to lock away all our valuable belongings which we duly did, we had our roof top tent cover nicked!! What a pain. It really spoiled Pangane for us even though it was such an amazing spot. It did teach us a couple of things though. What we see as valuable is not the same as others do and that the mere fact we are "mzungus" means that we are being watched and we generally do have a hell of a lot more than others, especially in Moz. Also it became clear that Pangane is not a homogenous clan but rather a melting pot of people from all over the place, Tanzania, Pemba etc. Police are a joke so no joy there, plus the closest bunch were at Mucojo about 20 kms away. Anyway we've put it behind us as an experience, a mere pimple on a camel's bottom so to speak! We'll try to get one shipped up to us in Dar or Nairobi and with Matt's tarpaulin we are all sorted anyway. We saw the biggest fish I've ever seen in Mr. Ashim's cold room, a 100kg grouper, huge!!
We still stayed their for 3 nights, pottering, snorkelling (which Rebecca took to like a duck to water). Just in case you've been wondering what we've been living on food-wise... well you could sum it up in two words ... bread rolls. They are fantastic. Otherwise it's been some stuff from our pantries plus veg and salad stuff picked up from the mercados.

Off to the ferry
Left Pangane, still tent coverless but wiser and then off to Mocimba da Praia. Stayed at Chez Natalia, most expensive campsite and not that great even though it had a nice view of the estuary. Place was crawling with Americans, we think oil-seekers. OK. we saw about 2 or 4.
Friday 13th saw us heading for Quoinga. Stopped to fill up with gasoleo, put in 1.7l and that was that! Empty. Drove to the beach and had a look around as a delivery was imminent, bought rolls still no diesel so headed off. Getting great consumption from Tom Cruiser at the moment but then we are not really going over 90kms an hour. So around 11-13 l/100kms. Not too shabby, Nige!
At Quoinga it was Lenny the leopard's birthday. He seems to have got younger, he turned 2, (oh no then 4 because we had a nice "4" candle). Kaz, Reb and I sang "Happy Birthday". We stayed with the missionaries, Andre and AnneMarie. What fantastic and hospitable people and what a challenge they face in a staunch Muslim area.
Managed to contact the ferryman and had a time 12 oclock on Saturday. Up and out and off to the border, having picked up another 20 rolls for the trip. Got to the border post at 9:30 and eventually over 2 hours later got the passports stamped and off we went. Ferry wasn't there yet so we waited along with another car with aid workers who had been waiting since 8 am. In fact they had already crossed the river by boat, caught a scooter to the captains village and got a time from him too. Shows it can be done!

Mambo, Tanzania
Over we went into Tanzania. I drove the ladies' Hilux off the ferry and Kaz caoxed Tom up the steep sandy bank like a star! Note to self; ditch the tow bar it is always catching.

Immigration in Tanz was fine. $50 each for the visa and then a looooong wait for customs. We are now in Mtwara kicking our heels waiting for the 3rd party insurance lady to open her office. A night in Makonde beach and then up the coast to Kilwa. The bushcats are in country number 3!!

12 comments:

Anonymous said...

Hi Rich, Kaz and Becca
Sounds like you are having an awesome time - other than the bandits of course!! Happy belated birthday Lenny!! All fine back in chilly JHB! Enjoy Tanzania - a school friend of mine works for a Tanzenite Mine there so if you need a friendly face or help with logistics - will gladly give you his details!! Their offices are situated at Merelani Simanjiro District - not that I have a clue where that is, of course!!
Lotsaluv
Gray, Chris and Girls

jamesfam said...

Rich, Kaz and Becca
Great to see you are making good progress on your adventure. We are enjoying keeping up to date with your travels! Can't believe you are in Tanzania already.

Rich, hope your teeth are behaving - luckily you are surviving on bread rolls...and coffee!!

Love
The Ozzie Jameses

Anonymous said...

Hi Guys,

Sounds like you're having a great time. Keeping Mum updated with your exploits with regular updates. Enjoy and look after yourselves.

Love I & K

Anonymous said...

Seems like a fantastic start to a great journey - Wish I was there!!

Enjoy the rolls - more photo's please!

Ian from Oz

Anonymous said...

I am so scared we get sidetracked with work stuff, or that you don't get to log on again in time - sooooo i know it's early, but here's a HAPPY BIRTHDAY to Rich on the 29th!!!
I will be sure to crack a Meerlust (or 2)...great to hear from you.
lots of love, ant and sue

Anonymous said...

Hi there

Really enjoying reading your updates. We hope to see you towards the end of your trip, in England!

Take care
The Stott's (from a very rainy England!)

Anonymous said...

Hello. 5am and instead of getting up to run am drinking tea and catching up with you! You need to consider writing when you return cos you are brilliant. I can see you now in Clarence, running a B&B, cooking and writing.

Was thinking what would you like to read while you sitting in Tanzania? The day to day drivel from here! I'm just back from Mauritius! Went to the Group conference which was great, off the Durban sun-wed for work too! Promise am spinning and running! Just had Trish and Steve to stay. Stuart was in Dar 2 weeks ago, pity he couldn't be there when you will be there. Oh I'm so envious of you being in Tanzania, my favourite country.

Happy happy birthday to Lennie. Fred the Alley Cat wishes he were with Lennie!

Right, best I go running! How do I get my commenmt to say my name rather than anonymous?

Miss you guys, love Heath

Volker said...

Cool to read that you guys made it over the Rovuma River! We didn't!

http://volkersvividunchartedadventure.blogspot.com

Maybe see you on the way somewhere!

Volker said...

Cool to read that you guys made it over the Rovuma River! We didn't!

http://volkersvividunchartedadventure.blogspot.com

Maybe see you on the way somewhere!

Unknown said...

Hi. Glad to hear you having a good time and enjoying yourselves and the diveristy of Africa. We have spent a busy site seeing in London and now take off to the country soon to see Greg and Pauline. Not sure when we will be able to read your blog agian so Richard have a super birthday on the 29th!!
love
Anthony, Tessa & the boys

Anonymous said...

Hi Rich, Kaz, Rebecca,
Looks like you are having a blast, not enough posts here,though technologically challenged?
Have a Happy Birthday on the 29th Rich.
Love from us all,
Gerald, Pam and girls

Anonymous said...

Hi Rich Kaz and Rebecca

Lovely to read all your news. Sounds like you are having a great time.Saw some lovely pictures on Matt and Sue's blog.
Kayleigh left today had to take her to school this morning at 5am and they left at 6pm. Arrived in Swaziland +- 11am.Then on to Mozambique camping along the way The bus is called "Non-Stop Adventures" which is run by 2 teachers from Kloof High School.They have adventure racing at school and every holiday they visit different places.
Love to all
Pam and family