05 June 2008

Magical Mocambique part 2

Yes, yes 2 updates in one day is unheard of!! We are in Pemba, my first foray into an Internet Cafe and it doesn't even do coffee!!! This bushcat needs to become a beach kitten, so this update will be brief, also because this keyboard is doing my head in!!

Anyway, beach beach beach then moved into bush bush bush. From Inhassoro we went inland to Gorongosa and am very glad we did. Like the rest of the country, it has so much potential. The floodplains were impressive, as were the fever tree forests. It just needs some infrastructure for tourists and  instead of the fancy booking system put in some hides and picnic spots. Oh and some road signs would help too. If they want to say "no entry" a "stop" sign doesn't do it for me, so we ended up doing a lot of turning around. But my overall impression of Gorongosa is "I'd like to go back"

Next night after Gorongosa as you've probably already read was great. Headed for Caia and went to see if we cound camp at M'phungwe, James White's chalets. Nope, not at all. I played the Rebecca trump card: "she's little and can't go on much longer. etc.." Anyway Nelson called JW, who duly arrived and the next thing we are setting up camp in his back yard next to his sawmill.

The ferry over the ZAmbezi was something else. It's funny how only at ferry stops and in big towns do we come across begging. Everywhere else everyone is busy smousing stuff which I much prefer.

I spent the ferry trip sitting in the car, watching the car being sprayed with cattle poo from the truck next door. 2 of them had fallen over and were being trampled. Aish! Maybe the bridge will be ready in 2010, maybe not!

While we have seen some bad roads, I think that they have generally been very good. Sorry Andor, no real potholes yet. Our Zambian trip yielded far more.
Food is really easy to come by as is diesel. We've only had to resort to road side sellers once. Luckily bread rools are found all over as are some scrummy little doughnuts, 1MTS each. We have been having them with our morning coffee. Johan, very handy pressie thanks!

Anyway enough keping you up to date. You'll have to wait for the next exciting instalment covering Ilha da Mocambique and Pemba itself. Oh OK. Let's do it quickly. Ilha is amazing. Camp Casuarina was handy and good even if the locals do use the sea as their toilet. I can't really see why anyone still lives on Ilha. It seems to be slowly fading away. The highlight that day for Kingsley Holgate and his entourage was meeting us as we walked off the causeway on our way back to the camp. We gave him a couple of tips for his trip back home and he did likewise, what a nice chap he was too!!!

Ilha to Pemba was an easy hop. Kingsley recommended Jardim's bush camp and that is where w\e are staying. Brenda the owner is great and has shown us, esp BW some really interesting things.

Anyway, my coffee awaits.

11 comments:

Anonymous said...

thanks for update - finally been check so i can read them to Sylvia. have copied and pasted to all as well that dont have regular access. Snow on mountains around Clarens last nite (4.6.08)- Jhb sunny but cold. Anne confirmed into Mbweni Ruins about 10 mins from Stonetown 20 - 25 June will join her there on 23rd.
Love and hugs Sheens

Anonymous said...

At least now we have proof that you guys are with M&S. Keep safe and keep updating - nice to read both blogs - and please some photos would be good.

Love the Princes xx

Anonymous said...

Wow! Your blog is awesome...I am really impressed! Great to catch up on where you guys are (and have been)...not missing much in wet & cold Jozi...Tasch missing Becca Weasel though (will show her the blog & get her to send Becca a message soon)! Looking forward to some photos of your adventure! Take care and much love, Abi

Anonymous said...

Hi Becca. I hope you have alot of fun looking at all the Animals. Hope we get pictures from you soon and you have a very nice time.Lots of love, Tasch

Anonymous said...

Hi! As Sheens says, will be in Zanzibar 20-25 June and looking forward to catching up! Will bring the champers! Saw Jack last night and he is looking well and getting along fine with Thatcher. Miss you guys, lots of love Anne

Anonymous said...

Hello! Loving catching up with your travels. Still very jealous. At Cape Town airport with Stuart, been down to Napier to stay with Andre and Brett. Was great. They all want to come to Clarence so going to book your lovely home for either Sept or October. Lisa and I are running tomorrow, we keep looking for poor childrens money bit have not found any yet! Miss you all. Lots of love Heath

Anonymous said...

Great reading your blog - your trip sounds brilliant! (We're really sad we couldn't be there to accompany you!)
We've only one week more to go in Beijing and then we're moving to Thailand - yayy! Say 'hi' to Zambia & Lusaka for us - we still miss it.
Keep well and keep updating the blof when you can.

Love,
Mike & Sheena & Georgia

Anonymous said...

Hi Rich, Kaz, Becca
Spent a weekend at Clarens. It was ccccccoooold but lovely and please to report all still in order!! Lovely snow on the mountains in the distance (in fact lots of snow!!). Thought of you all probably sunning yourselves!
Lotsaluv and agree with the photo sentiment!!
Gray, chris and girls

Anonymous said...

Hi Guys.
Anne told us about your blog so now we can keep up with your travels.Don't forget to drop in if you need a bed when you hit the UK. Emma is doing well.Best wishes for the journey.Liz

Anonymous said...

Great to hear from you sounds like your having fun. Just to let you know Molly had a great 1st birthday lots of pressies. We had lunch at The Fat Loaf with bubbly (for mummy and anutie Kathryn. Off on our hols tomorrow look forward to catching up when we are back. Love Pamela Nick and Mollyxxxx

Anonymous said...

Helloo coffee drinker and dough nut eater can we have news on your bushcats companions as well please. Its not just what your doing but who you're doing it with i.e. the wife!!!! Happy fathers day...... Linda and hubby and children p.s. the trip sounds fantastic and you seem to have lost the corporate look and feel already!