Last post for now. So it's a kwa heri from Dar. Not sure when we'll post again but thanks for the comments we look on the phone from time to time and it's like Christmas when we read your messages.
road to Selous and a coffee stop in Selous. Magic
30 June 2008
Yet more pics.
Rebecca and Kaz at the Nacole Jardim Beach and Spa Resort in Pemba.
Rebecca and breakfast; On the ferry over the rovuma River
Building the way out on the Tanzanian side.
Some pics from Mocambique and southern Tanzania
OK, so I don't know what happened there??!!
Pothole picture for Andor. Refueling stop at the local Engen.
Rebecca and buddies under causeway to Ilha. Chillies at the Ilha market
Gorongosa in the early morning, Goats du roam.
29 June 2008
Happy birthday to me!
Had a great day on the beach. Kaz and rebecca gave me a voucher for a swedish massage and a masai stool. I was also spoilt with cards, text and blog messages. Thanks to all of you for these. Tom cruiser is in for a service tomorrow and we will start moving again on tuesday, possibly to pangane.
28 June 2008
Bushcats become cyber cats
Matt set up email on our phone so i want to see if i can post this. How scarey to think that we may be dragged into 21st century in darkest africa.
27 June 2008
Tanzania too
Thought my laptop was going to conk out so got that one posted quickly.
"Hey daar" from Dar!!
"Hey daar" from Dar!!
Left Selous at a good time because the campsite got busy the night before we left. Drive to Dar was fine once we got back to the main road and the one before that we knew what to expect anyway. Stopped for a yummy lunch of tomato and crackers along the road. Also ran out of coffee, even more serious than running out of tonic believe you me! Bit tricky to find a shady tree that is not in someone's front garden.
Sunrise Beach Resort, south of the city, is to be our home for the next while. We’ll also leave our vehicle here while we go to Zanzibar. Decided not to cook and went to order pizzas from the restaurant. Waited a while in the tent when ,surprise, surprise, tent service had arrived! First time we’ve been served dinner in our tent. Heard from Anne that she was safely arrived in Zanzibar and that our Roof Top Tent cover had been despatched by Gerald from Alu-cab. Thanks Gerald!! Couple of others camped with us, some heading south having done the Serengeti safari circuit and others going the other way. Saturday 21st was the shortest day but I’m not so sure if it makes any difference when one is only 7 or 8 degrees south of the Equator.
Rebecca found 2 friends, Alexander and Sebastian and played nicely with them. Andy, the boys’ dad bought all the kids, including BW, a tin car and she has had much fun playing with it. It seems to be the vehicle of choice for her Polly Pockets to go on safari with, amazing how even they choose a Land Rover Defender. Booked a taxi to take us to the ferry, packed our trusty backpack, looked at the accommodation options on the island and watched the goings on on the beach, a camel offering rides and two guys fishing with a net managed to beach one tiny fish (net had a hole in it). I know when you read this you are wondering how on earth we are coping with all the stress? Well, it is quite difficult I’ll have you know! And it gets worse, we ate in the restaurant again that night. I had “English Fish Style”, Fish style; yes, English style; no, delicious; without doubt. Kaz had fish curry masala, Rebecca had toasted cheese, didn’t look toasted or cheesy to me. Rebecca has been enjoying fizzy drinks since her fruit juice ran out. She’s had more on this trip than in her lifetime before that. Heard that Zanzibar had its power restored after their undersea cable gave up the ghost a couple of months ago. That’s bright news.
Zanzibar – Karibu (welcome)
Caught the taxi next morning to the car and pedestrian ferry that connects the south to the city. Walked off the ferry and then down the road to the Zanzibar Ferry Terminal. Bought tickets and were befriended by Robert who offered to take us to a coffee shop. Being Sunday not open but luckily we didn’t have a lot of time to kill before we boarded the Sea Star II. Rebecca was free as long as she didn’t occupy her own seat. Bit bumpy at first but Rebecca and I had a nap so didn’t really feel it. They need to work on the entertainment on the ferry. They showed a soap from East African TV. Diabolical but the locals were lapping it up. One of those where the sound effect comes in before the punch is thrown and the tomato sauce blood is spat out. Even before leaving the cabin, eagle-eyed Kaz had spotted Anne waiting for us at Freddie Mercury’s Restaurant, so cleared passport control!! (Oh yes, they like to be different) and then off for lunch at Mercurys. Walking down to find our hotel which was on the outskirts of Stone Town, we attracted a papasi, a tick, who then attached himself to us as we wondered through the streets. Eventually found our hotel, Clove Hotel, after our friendly tick had told us it was closed for renovations. Hotel room was nice and the upstairs verandah where we ate breakfast even nicer, same view as Emmerson & Green of the roof tops and harbour but at a fraction of the price. Dropped bags and went for a walk. Ended up at Stone Town Café for a coffee. First coffee since our supplies had run out a couple of days before and we’d been on zero rations, thank goodness. We take our daily coffee stops very seriously indeed!!
Sundowners at Livingstone’s and then a stroll to the food stalls near the Forodhani Gardens which are closed for a refurb. Had Zanzibari pizzas and some kebabs. Walking around you kind of wonder whether Ilha da Mocambique could be like this if it got the tourists in. They are at the same kind of level of genteel decay albeit Ilha doesn’t have the doors or the spices or the monkeys or the beaches. OK forget it, I’ll stop stressing about Ilha, it is what it is.
Met Anne again to explore Stone town after a breakfast with a view. Visited the Old Slave Market, stumbled on the Hammani Baths by accident, also toured the food market. Bought some amazing red spikey fruit that looked and tasted like litchis. Turned out to be Rambutans as we found out when we did the spice tour. Sheens arrived at lunch time and met us at Amore Mia for lunch. Rebecca was now in her element with not ONE but TWO of her fan club with her. She was lapping up the attention and of course was thoroughly spoilt.It was also Anne’s birthday so we did sundowners at New Africa Hotel and then Anne treated us to dinner at the Monsoon Restaurant, it was a “shoes off – sit on cushions affair”: very delicious. Discovered great coffee at the Zanzibar Coffee house.
We had organised Ali to pick us up for our excursions at 8am the next day so were on the move early. Ali had to pick up a permit to drive out of Stone town, also filled up with petrol and then we picked Anne and Sheens up from the Mboweni ruins Hotel. First stop was the red colobus and Sykes’ monkeys which were interesting and not at all elusive. In fact they were all over the road. Kaz and I missed a wee wee shower courtesy of one cheeky monkey in the canopy above us. Rebecca enjoyed this and especially liked the “showy-off” ones. We took a walk through the protected mahogany forest and on a boardwalk through the mangroves. Rebecca planted one by dropping a seed pod into the mud. From Jozani Forest, Ali took us to a spice farm which we all found very interesting even though we all weren’t looking forward to it thinking it would be touristy and tacky. It was amazing to see how everything grows. The girls all got leaf cones and woven bags for their samples, bracelets and rings also made from leaves while King Richard got a tie and a hat and ended up looking like the king of the lemurs from Madagascar. Nice!
Mr Spice had got his sisters to cook lunch for us and it was very yummy. Pilau rice, cassava leaves, coconut curry and a tomato curry. Not hot but very flavoursome and tasty. In fact it’s making me hungry just think about it. We now have mace, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and a vanilla pod drying in the car.
Then back to Mboweni ruins where we had a quick drink, Rebecca had a swim in the pool and Ali had a quick prayer. Must say the muezzins are fairly persistent and call the faithful at many times during the day. With 51 mosques in Stone town I’m glad they don’t all use loud speakers. Then we all piled back in Ali’s taxi and back to Stone town to shop. Kaz bought some scarves, Sheens bought me a Masai stick for my birthday and Kaz & Reb bought me an old Masai stool. Very spoilt by everyone. Sundowners and dinner on our last full day on Zanzibar was at Livingstone’s.
Met the girls for the last time in the morning, headed for the Zanzibar Coffee House for morning coffee and then back to pick up our bags. Girls were off to the airport and we were off to catch the 1pm ferry. It was very difficult saying goodbye as we don’t really know when we’ll meet up again.
We got to the ticket office only to find that the 1pm ferry was full. “Oh bother” as Winnie the Pooh would say. Nothing for it, but to buy tickets for the 4pm crossing of the Sea Express. As we were all Stone Towned-out, we stayed at departures (by no stretch of the imagination could it be called a lounge) and did Kids Sudoku with Rebecca. Ferry was on time and after a bumpy bumpy crossing arrived back in Dar just after 6pm. Retrieved backpack and marched off to catch the Kigamboni ferry. Entertainment -no better -consisted of Anaconda followed by Snake Man. Matt picked us up on the other side which was a relief as by this time it was getting dark. Had to then get the tent up and Sue had cooked pasta which we all gobbled up. Matt had booked our car in for a service on Monday 30th (which is where I’m typing this) and we had hoped to leave Dar before this. Never mind, there are far worse places to stay than mini-Mauritius.
Zanzibar was great, 3 nights was enough, and doing it with Anne and Sheena over Anne’s birthday was special.
Stuck in Kigamboni
If it’s Thursday, if it’s 26th June, then it must be washing day in paradise. Put fridge onto mains, charged up some appliances, and tried to get a bit organised. While Rebecca helped Kaz with the washing, I took a stroll to the nearby food stalls to see what was on offer. Came back with some doughnuts, a cabbage, a pineapple, a loaf of bread and 4 eggs. Had a donut with some yummy coffee we’d bought on Zanzibar. At last our coffee stocks are looking good again. Later on. We powered up the Cobb, Kaz made pancakes, we boiled our eggs and cooked a pasta supper.
After dinner we bought some drinks, got chocolate from the fridge and piled into the tent to watch “Charlotte’s Web” which Ian & Kay had given us. Nice movie: in Rebecca’s words: “When Charlotte died, my eyes started to water and I got a little sore throat.”
The next 2 days were spent in Dar. The first to track down our DHL package and an internet café, the second to shop.
Before leaving for Dar we had a fairly serious incident. A crow pinched one of our boiled eggs we were about to enjoy for breakfast. Rebecca was highly indignant at the cheek of this crow and chased it all over. Ferry to town was uneventful. Or trip to DHL, not so. Our parcel was still at the airport and after paying another R500 they could clear it through customs for me and they’d deliver it to the Dar office. Aish. I think I would also like to be able to levy customs charges, VAT, duty this duty that , on people. Anyway, found a nice internet café, in the same building as Steers, where I posted an update to the blog and checked bank accounts, while Kaz and Rebecca did some journaling.
Back again to try our luck at DHL. Kaz navigated us straight there and the parcel was waiting for us. Must say, I had had my doubts.
Then off to shop at Shoppers Plaza and Shoprite. Prices are extortionate. As an expat you will need to be paid a small fortune to relocate. A lot of the stock is imported from UK or SA, hence the high prices. Drew money from a Stanbic branch, not sure why as the charges are no cheaper for me and unlike Barclays machines’ I couldn’t get a balance.
Anyway bought the staples we needed and then off to find the Spur we’d been told about. It was at Sea Cliff, opposite a supermarket better stocked than the one’s we’d shopped in earlier, but that’s sod’s law. Prices were just as steep though.
Saturday nights at Sunrise Beach are not for the faint hearted. This was our second and it was as bad as we remembered. The singer had not practiced during the week and even a power failure didn’t dampen his spirits. He just competed with the generator as well.
I woke on Sunday 29th to a rendition of “Happy Birthday” from 2 angels. What more could anyone need in life!! The messages, SMS’s and blog comments were much appreciated. Thank you!!
We had an early morning swim, took a walk to the shops, bought chiapattis and donuts to have with our egg and bacon breakfast. Yep, you heard right, haven’t had one of those for nearly 2 months. Scrummy.
Kaz and Rebecca paid for me to have a swedish massage. That plus sundowners and dinner on the beach in front of our tent rounded off a great 48th birthday for me.
Asante sana!
Done with Dar
Sitting at Toyota waiting for Tom Cruiser. It’s his pamper day. New oil, filters, and all the stuff that makes him tick or purr. Must say that the consumption we’ve been getting has been great. From 7 or so kms to a litre it’s been up to 8.4 consistently with even a 9.34 thrown in. That was very slow driving though. We do not really go over 90km/hr and that does wonders for the consumption.
Bumped into 2 guys waiting for this morning’s ferry. Patrick, a journo from SA4X4 and Bertus, a travel guide. Had an interesting chat with them. Turns out via Patrick that even Kingsley Holgate had stuff pinched at Pangane. He created a stink so they got their goods back. Gas bottles by the sound of it. Even more reason to steer clear as pinching seems to be such a regular occurrence.Not sure how long this is going to take. It’s now 12pm and hopefully it’s ready before their estimate of 3pm. It was so faced the manic traffic to find this internet cafe. The air conditioning is so noisy it makes me feel like I'm sitting on a flossie en route to SWA. Scary!
Tanzania
Trip up from Rovuma Ferry
We can't believe this country - no bread rolls!! What on earth are we going to eat? Stayed in and around Mtwara town for 2 days waiting to sort out vehicle insurance which we did on Sunday 15th. Do any of you remember carbon paper, well they still use loads of it here. Ended up getting the COMESA insurance which should be valid all the way up to Egypt, in theory anyway. Drew some cash from the ATM, filled up with diesel and off we went, headed for Kilwa. Accom nothing to write home about except that the second night tested my negotiating skills, $10 each for a scruffy piece of grass.. got it down to $5 and Rebecca free. The scorpion we found on the tent the next morning had stayed for free too. Must say, they breed the chickens tough around here, kamikaze on the road and that toughness stays with them onto the plate!
Lack of available tonic water is turning Kaz into a Kilimanjaro beer drinker, now that's serious!
After Mtwara drove through baobab forests like we've never seen before, absolutely magical. Their grey forms just tower over all the other vegetation. There are also other amazing trees, with a straight butressed trunk and the dark green leaves off branches high up. Not sure what they are.
Drove to Kilwa Masoko where we overnighted and ate lobster!! Rebecca met a friend called Rebecca, a black American staying in Lindi and played with her for a while and they ate dinner together. We then met her parents, Karen and Richard!!! How is that for a coincidence.
The Kilwas campsite was teeming with ants and luckily we had decided to head off to Selous Game Reserve the next day. At last...a bush injection awaits.
Splendiferous Selous
To say that the road was interesting is well an understatement. It's the first time we've had to engage 4X4 on a main road. We had to dodge buses, craters, bogs, you name it on a 56 km stretch that took us about 3 hours to do!! From then on it was tar until Ikwiriri where we filled and and then headed west to Selous, the largest game reserve in African and the second largest in the world. Which is the largest? well heck I just don't know so please let us know. Maybe "Enquiries" would like to have a go. (that rhymes... it's so sad). An epic 9hr journey brought us into the most amazing campsite overlooking the Rufiji River. We pitched the tent, powered up the Cobb and ate a tomato and potato stew listening to the noisy hippos and the night sounds we love so much. Made and cooked roosterkoek for the next day, Why, you may ask? No rolls in Tanzania!!! Rebecca had left over chicken and a greek salad, her idea of heaven. Downloaded emails on the phone (easy peasy) and got the good news from Matt about the RTT cover and got the comments that you guys are posting to the blog on the phone too, amazing. Still can't email out from the phone though.
Had a nocturnal visit from some ellies who came right up to the front of our tent where we'd hung a lantern. Well as usual, we'd camped under a tree dropping fruit that they were obviously quite partial to.
Next day we set off to explore the park, well the north eastern bit anyway. Road was just as bad in the park as outside but we were in no rush. The park was stunning. We didn't see loads of game. Were directed to some lions that we away from the road, so "no off-roady" become "a little bit off-roady". Had morning coffee under the iconic East African thorn trees and lunch overlooking a part of one of the lakes. Bonnet got dinged by a falling palm nut. The lakes and rivers were teeming with hippos and crocs. Also had some new bird spots, miombo starling and spur wing lapwing. Park was quiet, very few other game viewing vehicles and a wonderful feel of the wilderness. Selous' grave was too far away to visit especially given the condition of the road. Entry wasn't too bad. $30 for the vehicle and $30 each for the adults. Cracked a bottle of sparkling wine that night to celebrate our return to the bush. Ran out of SA water in the car today so on to our filter system from now on.
Took the next day off to relax, our ellies visited again during the night. Baked a loaf of bread in the Cobb. Why? Yep, you've got the picture!
Did a boat cruise from Mbega camp for 2 and a half hours which was really nice. great sightings of white fronted bee eaters. Saw squirrels and elephant shrews in the camp too.
Next day we struck camp and were off to Dar.
We can't believe this country - no bread rolls!! What on earth are we going to eat? Stayed in and around Mtwara town for 2 days waiting to sort out vehicle insurance which we did on Sunday 15th. Do any of you remember carbon paper, well they still use loads of it here. Ended up getting the COMESA insurance which should be valid all the way up to Egypt, in theory anyway. Drew some cash from the ATM, filled up with diesel and off we went, headed for Kilwa. Accom nothing to write home about except that the second night tested my negotiating skills, $10 each for a scruffy piece of grass.. got it down to $5 and Rebecca free. The scorpion we found on the tent the next morning had stayed for free too. Must say, they breed the chickens tough around here, kamikaze on the road and that toughness stays with them onto the plate!
Lack of available tonic water is turning Kaz into a Kilimanjaro beer drinker, now that's serious!
After Mtwara drove through baobab forests like we've never seen before, absolutely magical. Their grey forms just tower over all the other vegetation. There are also other amazing trees, with a straight butressed trunk and the dark green leaves off branches high up. Not sure what they are.
Drove to Kilwa Masoko where we overnighted and ate lobster!! Rebecca met a friend called Rebecca, a black American staying in Lindi and played with her for a while and they ate dinner together. We then met her parents, Karen and Richard!!! How is that for a coincidence.
The Kilwas campsite was teeming with ants and luckily we had decided to head off to Selous Game Reserve the next day. At last...a bush injection awaits.
Splendiferous Selous
To say that the road was interesting is well an understatement. It's the first time we've had to engage 4X4 on a main road. We had to dodge buses, craters, bogs, you name it on a 56 km stretch that took us about 3 hours to do!! From then on it was tar until Ikwiriri where we filled and and then headed west to Selous, the largest game reserve in African and the second largest in the world. Which is the largest? well heck I just don't know so please let us know. Maybe "Enquiries" would like to have a go. (that rhymes... it's so sad). An epic 9hr journey brought us into the most amazing campsite overlooking the Rufiji River. We pitched the tent, powered up the Cobb and ate a tomato and potato stew listening to the noisy hippos and the night sounds we love so much. Made and cooked roosterkoek for the next day, Why, you may ask? No rolls in Tanzania!!! Rebecca had left over chicken and a greek salad, her idea of heaven. Downloaded emails on the phone (easy peasy) and got the good news from Matt about the RTT cover and got the comments that you guys are posting to the blog on the phone too, amazing. Still can't email out from the phone though.
Had a nocturnal visit from some ellies who came right up to the front of our tent where we'd hung a lantern. Well as usual, we'd camped under a tree dropping fruit that they were obviously quite partial to.
Next day we set off to explore the park, well the north eastern bit anyway. Road was just as bad in the park as outside but we were in no rush. The park was stunning. We didn't see loads of game. Were directed to some lions that we away from the road, so "no off-roady" become "a little bit off-roady". Had morning coffee under the iconic East African thorn trees and lunch overlooking a part of one of the lakes. Bonnet got dinged by a falling palm nut. The lakes and rivers were teeming with hippos and crocs. Also had some new bird spots, miombo starling and spur wing lapwing. Park was quiet, very few other game viewing vehicles and a wonderful feel of the wilderness. Selous' grave was too far away to visit especially given the condition of the road. Entry wasn't too bad. $30 for the vehicle and $30 each for the adults. Cracked a bottle of sparkling wine that night to celebrate our return to the bush. Ran out of SA water in the car today so on to our filter system from now on.
Took the next day off to relax, our ellies visited again during the night. Baked a loaf of bread in the Cobb. Why? Yep, you've got the picture!
Did a boat cruise from Mbega camp for 2 and a half hours which was really nice. great sightings of white fronted bee eaters. Saw squirrels and elephant shrews in the camp too.
Next day we struck camp and were off to Dar.
15 June 2008
Mocambique to Tanzania
Pemba paradise to pilfering Pangane
Spent about 5 nights at Nacole Jardim. It seemed to suck us in and not want to let us go. We were there at high high tide as it was new moon, so the discussion turned to: when would the ferry run, when would it not run, when should we get to the launching spot? Eventually we summoned up the energy to pack up and move on.
Nice drive up the coast to Pangane where there is a campsite run by Mr Ashim at the jutting out piece of land. The sort of spit that attracts wind and windy it was!! Relentless wind.
Yep, even after being warned to lock away all our valuable belongings which we duly did, we had our roof top tent cover nicked!! What a pain. It really spoiled Pangane for us even though it was such an amazing spot. It did teach us a couple of things though. What we see as valuable is not the same as others do and that the mere fact we are "mzungus" means that we are being watched and we generally do have a hell of a lot more than others, especially in Moz. Also it became clear that Pangane is not a homogenous clan but rather a melting pot of people from all over the place, Tanzania, Pemba etc. Police are a joke so no joy there, plus the closest bunch were at Mucojo about 20 kms away. Anyway we've put it behind us as an experience, a mere pimple on a camel's bottom so to speak! We'll try to get one shipped up to us in Dar or Nairobi and with Matt's tarpaulin we are all sorted anyway. We saw the biggest fish I've ever seen in Mr. Ashim's cold room, a 100kg grouper, huge!!
We still stayed their for 3 nights, pottering, snorkelling (which Rebecca took to like a duck to water). Just in case you've been wondering what we've been living on food-wise... well you could sum it up in two words ... bread rolls. They are fantastic. Otherwise it's been some stuff from our pantries plus veg and salad stuff picked up from the mercados.
Off to the ferry
Left Pangane, still tent coverless but wiser and then off to Mocimba da Praia. Stayed at Chez Natalia, most expensive campsite and not that great even though it had a nice view of the estuary. Place was crawling with Americans, we think oil-seekers. OK. we saw about 2 or 4.
Friday 13th saw us heading for Quoinga. Stopped to fill up with gasoleo, put in 1.7l and that was that! Empty. Drove to the beach and had a look around as a delivery was imminent, bought rolls still no diesel so headed off. Getting great consumption from Tom Cruiser at the moment but then we are not really going over 90kms an hour. So around 11-13 l/100kms. Not too shabby, Nige!
At Quoinga it was Lenny the leopard's birthday. He seems to have got younger, he turned 2, (oh no then 4 because we had a nice "4" candle). Kaz, Reb and I sang "Happy Birthday". We stayed with the missionaries, Andre and AnneMarie. What fantastic and hospitable people and what a challenge they face in a staunch Muslim area.
Managed to contact the ferryman and had a time 12 oclock on Saturday. Up and out and off to the border, having picked up another 20 rolls for the trip. Got to the border post at 9:30 and eventually over 2 hours later got the passports stamped and off we went. Ferry wasn't there yet so we waited along with another car with aid workers who had been waiting since 8 am. In fact they had already crossed the river by boat, caught a scooter to the captains village and got a time from him too. Shows it can be done!
Mambo, Tanzania
Over we went into Tanzania. I drove the ladies' Hilux off the ferry and Kaz caoxed Tom up the steep sandy bank like a star! Note to self; ditch the tow bar it is always catching.
Immigration in Tanz was fine. $50 each for the visa and then a looooong wait for customs. We are now in Mtwara kicking our heels waiting for the 3rd party insurance lady to open her office. A night in Makonde beach and then up the coast to Kilwa. The bushcats are in country number 3!!
Spent about 5 nights at Nacole Jardim. It seemed to suck us in and not want to let us go. We were there at high high tide as it was new moon, so the discussion turned to: when would the ferry run, when would it not run, when should we get to the launching spot? Eventually we summoned up the energy to pack up and move on.
Nice drive up the coast to Pangane where there is a campsite run by Mr Ashim at the jutting out piece of land. The sort of spit that attracts wind and windy it was!! Relentless wind.
Yep, even after being warned to lock away all our valuable belongings which we duly did, we had our roof top tent cover nicked!! What a pain. It really spoiled Pangane for us even though it was such an amazing spot. It did teach us a couple of things though. What we see as valuable is not the same as others do and that the mere fact we are "mzungus" means that we are being watched and we generally do have a hell of a lot more than others, especially in Moz. Also it became clear that Pangane is not a homogenous clan but rather a melting pot of people from all over the place, Tanzania, Pemba etc. Police are a joke so no joy there, plus the closest bunch were at Mucojo about 20 kms away. Anyway we've put it behind us as an experience, a mere pimple on a camel's bottom so to speak! We'll try to get one shipped up to us in Dar or Nairobi and with Matt's tarpaulin we are all sorted anyway. We saw the biggest fish I've ever seen in Mr. Ashim's cold room, a 100kg grouper, huge!!
We still stayed their for 3 nights, pottering, snorkelling (which Rebecca took to like a duck to water). Just in case you've been wondering what we've been living on food-wise... well you could sum it up in two words ... bread rolls. They are fantastic. Otherwise it's been some stuff from our pantries plus veg and salad stuff picked up from the mercados.
Off to the ferry
Left Pangane, still tent coverless but wiser and then off to Mocimba da Praia. Stayed at Chez Natalia, most expensive campsite and not that great even though it had a nice view of the estuary. Place was crawling with Americans, we think oil-seekers. OK. we saw about 2 or 4.
Friday 13th saw us heading for Quoinga. Stopped to fill up with gasoleo, put in 1.7l and that was that! Empty. Drove to the beach and had a look around as a delivery was imminent, bought rolls still no diesel so headed off. Getting great consumption from Tom Cruiser at the moment but then we are not really going over 90kms an hour. So around 11-13 l/100kms. Not too shabby, Nige!
At Quoinga it was Lenny the leopard's birthday. He seems to have got younger, he turned 2, (oh no then 4 because we had a nice "4" candle). Kaz, Reb and I sang "Happy Birthday". We stayed with the missionaries, Andre and AnneMarie. What fantastic and hospitable people and what a challenge they face in a staunch Muslim area.
Managed to contact the ferryman and had a time 12 oclock on Saturday. Up and out and off to the border, having picked up another 20 rolls for the trip. Got to the border post at 9:30 and eventually over 2 hours later got the passports stamped and off we went. Ferry wasn't there yet so we waited along with another car with aid workers who had been waiting since 8 am. In fact they had already crossed the river by boat, caught a scooter to the captains village and got a time from him too. Shows it can be done!
Mambo, Tanzania
Over we went into Tanzania. I drove the ladies' Hilux off the ferry and Kaz caoxed Tom up the steep sandy bank like a star! Note to self; ditch the tow bar it is always catching.
Immigration in Tanz was fine. $50 each for the visa and then a looooong wait for customs. We are now in Mtwara kicking our heels waiting for the 3rd party insurance lady to open her office. A night in Makonde beach and then up the coast to Kilwa. The bushcats are in country number 3!!
05 June 2008
Magical Mocambique part 2
Yes, yes 2 updates in one day is unheard of!! We are in Pemba, my first foray into an Internet Cafe and it doesn't even do coffee!!! This bushcat needs to become a beach kitten, so this update will be brief, also because this keyboard is doing my head in!!
Anyway, beach beach beach then moved into bush bush bush. From Inhassoro we went inland to Gorongosa and am very glad we did. Like the rest of the country, it has so much potential. The floodplains were impressive, as were the fever tree forests. It just needs some infrastructure for tourists and instead of the fancy booking system put in some hides and picnic spots. Oh and some road signs would help too. If they want to say "no entry" a "stop" sign doesn't do it for me, so we ended up doing a lot of turning around. But my overall impression of Gorongosa is "I'd like to go back"
Next night after Gorongosa as you've probably already read was great. Headed for Caia and went to see if we cound camp at M'phungwe, James White's chalets. Nope, not at all. I played the Rebecca trump card: "she's little and can't go on much longer. etc.." Anyway Nelson called JW, who duly arrived and the next thing we are setting up camp in his back yard next to his sawmill.
The ferry over the ZAmbezi was something else. It's funny how only at ferry stops and in big towns do we come across begging. Everywhere else everyone is busy smousing stuff which I much prefer.
I spent the ferry trip sitting in the car, watching the car being sprayed with cattle poo from the truck next door. 2 of them had fallen over and were being trampled. Aish! Maybe the bridge will be ready in 2010, maybe not!
While we have seen some bad roads, I think that they have generally been very good. Sorry Andor, no real potholes yet. Our Zambian trip yielded far more.
Food is really easy to come by as is diesel. We've only had to resort to road side sellers once. Luckily bread rools are found all over as are some scrummy little doughnuts, 1MTS each. We have been having them with our morning coffee. Johan, very handy pressie thanks!
Anyway enough keping you up to date. You'll have to wait for the next exciting instalment covering Ilha da Mocambique and Pemba itself. Oh OK. Let's do it quickly. Ilha is amazing. Camp Casuarina was handy and good even if the locals do use the sea as their toilet. I can't really see why anyone still lives on Ilha. It seems to be slowly fading away. The highlight that day for Kingsley Holgate and his entourage was meeting us as we walked off the causeway on our way back to the camp. We gave him a couple of tips for his trip back home and he did likewise, what a nice chap he was too!!!
Ilha to Pemba was an easy hop. Kingsley recommended Jardim's bush camp and that is where w\e are staying. Brenda the owner is great and has shown us, esp BW some really interesting things.
Anyway, my coffee awaits.
Anyway, beach beach beach then moved into bush bush bush. From Inhassoro we went inland to Gorongosa and am very glad we did. Like the rest of the country, it has so much potential. The floodplains were impressive, as were the fever tree forests. It just needs some infrastructure for tourists and instead of the fancy booking system put in some hides and picnic spots. Oh and some road signs would help too. If they want to say "no entry" a "stop" sign doesn't do it for me, so we ended up doing a lot of turning around. But my overall impression of Gorongosa is "I'd like to go back"
Next night after Gorongosa as you've probably already read was great. Headed for Caia and went to see if we cound camp at M'phungwe, James White's chalets. Nope, not at all. I played the Rebecca trump card: "she's little and can't go on much longer. etc.." Anyway Nelson called JW, who duly arrived and the next thing we are setting up camp in his back yard next to his sawmill.
The ferry over the ZAmbezi was something else. It's funny how only at ferry stops and in big towns do we come across begging. Everywhere else everyone is busy smousing stuff which I much prefer.
I spent the ferry trip sitting in the car, watching the car being sprayed with cattle poo from the truck next door. 2 of them had fallen over and were being trampled. Aish! Maybe the bridge will be ready in 2010, maybe not!
While we have seen some bad roads, I think that they have generally been very good. Sorry Andor, no real potholes yet. Our Zambian trip yielded far more.
Food is really easy to come by as is diesel. We've only had to resort to road side sellers once. Luckily bread rools are found all over as are some scrummy little doughnuts, 1MTS each. We have been having them with our morning coffee. Johan, very handy pressie thanks!
Anyway enough keping you up to date. You'll have to wait for the next exciting instalment covering Ilha da Mocambique and Pemba itself. Oh OK. Let's do it quickly. Ilha is amazing. Camp Casuarina was handy and good even if the locals do use the sea as their toilet. I can't really see why anyone still lives on Ilha. It seems to be slowly fading away. The highlight that day for Kingsley Holgate and his entourage was meeting us as we walked off the causeway on our way back to the camp. We gave him a couple of tips for his trip back home and he did likewise, what a nice chap he was too!!!
Ilha to Pemba was an easy hop. Kingsley recommended Jardim's bush camp and that is where w\e are staying. Brenda the owner is great and has shown us, esp BW some really interesting things.
Anyway, my coffee awaits.
Magical Mocambique!!
By now, you, the astute and erudite follower of the bushcats overland africa trip, will have realised that bushcats are not "real time" cats. For a more "with it" and up to date picture of where we are and what we are up to, please click on the link to the link of Matt and Sue.
Anyway some extracts from the moleskin diary of the bushcats, the preferred choice of Hemingway and us cats.
Doctor to Kruger
The car was packed and waiting at the entrance to the Rosebank clinic while I whizzed upstairs for a final check up. 15 mins later and we were off, having got the all clear.
A word of warning to those choosing a Land Cruiser 4.2D for long trips, cruise it certainly doesn't, so Tom Cruiser chugged northwards to Phalaborwa where we would enter the park.After a quick take away stop for breakfast and a diesel stop we finally made it into the park with just enough time to spare to make our check in at Mopani for the Tsendze Rustic Camp. Now what we've been doing in Moz is rustic, Tsendze certainly isn't, it is fantastic!! Choose camp site 3 if you can. M&S were looking positively relaxed as we arrived as dusk settled on the camp. For only the 2nd time ever we tackled the Roof top tent. Now...to all safari chicks past and present... RESPECT. You girls are amazing, this is not that easy. I end up sweaty and dusty every time. So does Rebecca as she is also very much in help mode. We spent the next day sorting out the vehicle and working out what we'd forgotten. Then it was off to Mopani to fill up and head to Giriyondo Border Post. I have to say that I am very impressed with Kruger. It is still great value and the picnic spot on the way to the gate was magic.
Southern Mocambique
The transfrontier park was so different. No infrastructure what so ever. At the exit gate, the seller of 3rd party insurance had knocked off for the day. It was 3pm after all. With much gesticulating we found the park HQ outside Massingir and finally a new camp site, no signposts, where we spent the night. The park guys were organised and they sent the insurance guys to our camp site where we got the necessary documentation. Massingir Dam is huge, it was a pity the camp site didn't have a great view of it. As we had entered lower down than anticipated we aimed for Chidenguele on the coast, just north of Xai Xai. We were struck by how different Moz felt to our previous trip when we'd driven up to Vilanculo with Jane and Alastair. Gone are the red and white tapes denoting landmine areas, gone (so far anyway) are the police road blocks that always used to pull you over. Only been stopped once near Quelimane.
Anyway we then started the long slog northwards. Moz is huge. At times it felt more like a route march than a holiday. Decided to venture onto the Inhambane Peninsular as w hadn't done that bit before, camping options were fairly limited both at Tofo and Barra. Unfortunately we didn't hook up with Joanna and Gary who were there at the same time, instead found a sorry campsite in a stunning spot at the Barra lighthouse. Kaz locked a barking dog in the ladies but that's another story.
Bought the first of many dozen rolls leaving Chidenguele, they seem to have become our staple diet.
Morrongula was our home for 2 nights woo hoo. Right on the beach, quiet and well run. Sea had quite a side wash but Rebecca weasel was in her element in the water. The bucket and spade got dragged out and brought in to use. As did the Cobb braai, amazing thing and so versatile, every camper should have one. Hard to leave M after only 2 nights but we still had so much country to cover. We also have to change our mind set from planning a 2 week holiday on the beach to that of a 7 month explore of a continent!!
Central Mocambique
Anyway some extracts from the moleskin diary of the bushcats, the preferred choice of Hemingway and us cats.
Doctor to Kruger
The car was packed and waiting at the entrance to the Rosebank clinic while I whizzed upstairs for a final check up. 15 mins later and we were off, having got the all clear.
A word of warning to those choosing a Land Cruiser 4.2D for long trips, cruise it certainly doesn't, so Tom Cruiser chugged northwards to Phalaborwa where we would enter the park.After a quick take away stop for breakfast and a diesel stop we finally made it into the park with just enough time to spare to make our check in at Mopani for the Tsendze Rustic Camp. Now what we've been doing in Moz is rustic, Tsendze certainly isn't, it is fantastic!! Choose camp site 3 if you can. M&S were looking positively relaxed as we arrived as dusk settled on the camp. For only the 2nd time ever we tackled the Roof top tent. Now...to all safari chicks past and present... RESPECT. You girls are amazing, this is not that easy. I end up sweaty and dusty every time. So does Rebecca as she is also very much in help mode. We spent the next day sorting out the vehicle and working out what we'd forgotten. Then it was off to Mopani to fill up and head to Giriyondo Border Post. I have to say that I am very impressed with Kruger. It is still great value and the picnic spot on the way to the gate was magic.
Southern Mocambique
The transfrontier park was so different. No infrastructure what so ever. At the exit gate, the seller of 3rd party insurance had knocked off for the day. It was 3pm after all. With much gesticulating we found the park HQ outside Massingir and finally a new camp site, no signposts, where we spent the night. The park guys were organised and they sent the insurance guys to our camp site where we got the necessary documentation. Massingir Dam is huge, it was a pity the camp site didn't have a great view of it. As we had entered lower down than anticipated we aimed for Chidenguele on the coast, just north of Xai Xai. We were struck by how different Moz felt to our previous trip when we'd driven up to Vilanculo with Jane and Alastair. Gone are the red and white tapes denoting landmine areas, gone (so far anyway) are the police road blocks that always used to pull you over. Only been stopped once near Quelimane.
Anyway we then started the long slog northwards. Moz is huge. At times it felt more like a route march than a holiday. Decided to venture onto the Inhambane Peninsular as w hadn't done that bit before, camping options were fairly limited both at Tofo and Barra. Unfortunately we didn't hook up with Joanna and Gary who were there at the same time, instead found a sorry campsite in a stunning spot at the Barra lighthouse. Kaz locked a barking dog in the ladies but that's another story.
Bought the first of many dozen rolls leaving Chidenguele, they seem to have become our staple diet.
Morrongula was our home for 2 nights woo hoo. Right on the beach, quiet and well run. Sea had quite a side wash but Rebecca weasel was in her element in the water. The bucket and spade got dragged out and brought in to use. As did the Cobb braai, amazing thing and so versatile, every camper should have one. Hard to leave M after only 2 nights but we still had so much country to cover. We also have to change our mind set from planning a 2 week holiday on the beach to that of a 7 month explore of a continent!!
Central Mocambique
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